New Look 6217 / Southport Dress Lovechild

Well that little blogging roll ground to a screeching halt didn’t it?

Sorry about that. I have actually got five finished garments to show you, I’ve just been really rubbish at photographing them. I went to my mum’s for a bumper photography session last sunday but completely forgot three things. Perhaps I should get one of the pop up tents they used on the Sew Over It City Break photo shoot and do a location shoot somewhere prettier for the rest of them!

new-look-6217-dress-hack

Anyway, today I’ve got a pattern hack to show you. Back in the middle of September it suddenly got really warm again for a couple of days so I frantically sewed a last minute maxi dress. It’s the lovechild of a New Look 6217 tee and a True Bias Southport dress, which I have been calling a Newport dress because it amuses me.

newport-dress-collage

To make it I put the Southport dress bodice under some tracing paper and traced off the centre front line (but extended up), waist seam and a smidge of the side seam and I marked where the shoulder was. Then I put the New Look 6217 under and lined up the shoulder and sort of the side seam (I overlapped the centre front a bit to make the neckline opening smaller and the top a slightly slimmer fit than a 6217), then traced off the neckline, sleeve bits and side seam blending into the traced Southport side seam. Hopefully that makes sense.

southport dress new look 6217 hack

Oh and I also added a bit more flare to the skirt. I was going to do it properly slash and spread the skirt in a few places but as I was trying to get the dress finished quickly I just pivoted the skirt pieces out when I was cutting out. I cut the front on the fold to omit the slit. I totally forgot that I still need to shorten the skirt and ended up taking an inch off the hem. It’s still a bit long but it’ll do.

true-bias-southport-hack-collage
I know I look derpy but I liked the photo anyway

I also didn’t do a drawstring like on the Southport dress and made an elastic channel out of the waist seam instead. The seams are overlocked instead of French seamed this time to save time.

The fabric is some viscose that I bought from Regency Rags on eBay about a year ago after seeing Marie from A Stitching Odyssey post a picture of it. I think I’ve got just shy of a metre left and some big scraps so I expect I might make a top out of what’s left.

true-bias-southport-hack-max
Best Max cameo I could get

The details

Pattern: True Bias Southport dress and New Look 6217

Measurements: Bust 37″ – Waist 30.5″ – Hips 40″ — Height 5’2″

Size made: Size 6 Southport skirt with the New Look 6217 hacked to fit

Alterations: I’ve tweaked the fit of New Look 6217 a little bit every time I’ve made it so it’s hard to remember where I’m at with changes. I’ve done all sorts of shoulder shenanigans basically. You can see the details in previous posts about the top plus a small swayback adjustment. For the Southport skirt part it’s just been shortened a lot – about 4″ – and pivoted to add some more fullness to the hem.

Fabric used: Around 2.25m of 150cm wide though there was probably a more economical way from cutting as I ended up with some big scraps.

Another version? 

Yes. I want to make a shorter version.

Any changes next time?

The shoulders slip back a lot so I need to do something but I don’t know what. I’ve been looking into it and things I’ve read say that the back armhole needs more room. Does that seem right?

Non-clueless versions

Kerry from Kestrel Makes used the same fabric to make a very similar dress with a vintage pattern. She has also made two New Look 6217 dresses.

Final Thoughts

I’m really happy with this dress. It’s really comfy and floaty, perfect for that sort of inbetween weather in spring or late summer (and apparently early autumn too these days). It’d be a nice one for holiday evening outfits too. I’m definitely going to make a shorter one to team with tights and a cardi now or bare legs in warmer weather.

Anyway, that’s it from me. Hope you’re all having a lovely weekend and I’ll try not to leave it another 8 weeks before blogging again.

Another New Look 6217 Tee

Have you ever had one of those patterns where you love your first version so rush off and make a second one (err.. 8 months later…) only for something to just feel a bit off about it?

Well that’s the story of this New Look 6217 tee I have to show you today.

New Look 6217 tee

I made a few alterations to the fit for this version so I was expecting this to now be my perfect t’shirt but I accidentally made a few things worse.

The neckline on this pattern is really wide, which is something to watch if you make it. I used the smallest size at the neck and shoulders for my last one and it was still bra-showingly wide so I brought it in a smidge (about 1/4″) for this version.

I also moved the shoulder seam forward, which is something I’ve started doing recently as I have terrible posture. My head sits quite far forward so if I did a normal forward shoulder adjustment, where you leave the neck part of the seam where it is and pivot the shoulder seam forward, the seam still wouldn’t line up with my ear like it’s supposed to. I don’t know if that makes any sense. But anyway, I moved the whole shoulder seam forward by 1/2″.

And now the t’shirt garottes me. I even put it on the other way round while I was taking these photos to check I hadn’t put it on backwards.

New Look 6217 tee
Backwards – annoyingly I much prefer the print placement on this side

The shoulder seam seems to be sitting in the right place so I don’t know if it’s just the neckline. I think I will just lower the neckline slightly on my next version rather than move the shoulder back again. See how that works first of all.

I omitted the back seam entirely on this version, which makes it really difficult to tell which is the back. The back is slightly longer, which is the easiest way to tell if I’m putting it on the right way round. (I was checking which way I’d pressed the seams at first…)

New Look 6217 back

I lengthened this version by 2 inches and I bias bound the hem again. I much prefer this length for having it untucked. I took some photos of it tucked in too even though I’m not sure how often I’ll wear it that way. I haven’t really got any skirts or trousers it’d work with (this pencil skirt is far too tight and I never wear it anymore).

New Look 6217 tucked in
It was too windy so I came inside

The sleeves on my first version were too tight because of me shortening it above the bust so I added an inch onto bottom of the armhole for this version. And they are still too tight. Which had me baffled until I remembered that I’d chopped about an inch, maybe more off the end of the sleeve because the sleeve sort of tapered (I think because of my grading between sizes badly) so it made the hole bigger. So I’ll need to fiddle with them before my next version too.

new-look-k6217

I think that’s everything I have to say about it. Even though it’s flawed I’ll still wear it. I wore it to work on Monday and felt comfortable in it all day. Just realised Monday was only yesterday, I’m having trouble with the old brain-thinking today.

New look 6217 side view

The details

Pattern: New Look 6217

Measurements: Bust: 37″ – Waist: 30.5″ – Hips: 39″

Size made: 10 at the neckline and shoulders, grading out to a 14 for the rest.

Alterations: Shortened by an inch above the bust and brought the neckhole in by about 1/4 inch. I also moved the whole shoulder seam forward by about 1/2″ and lengthened the hem by 2″

Fabric used: 1m of 150cm wide viscose from Abakhan

Another version? Yep, even though this version isn’t quite right I’m sure I’ll still wear it lots and I really do love this pattern.

Any changes next time? I’m thinking about making a floatier version with a high low hem to copy a top I saw someone wearing a while ago but I’ll make some more fitting changes too. Just the things I mentioned in the post, lowering the front neckline, maybe widen the neck again and fiddle with the sleeves.

So that’s my slightly disappointing second New Look 6217, hopefully third time lucky will hold true for my next go. Though I have quite a few other things in the queue to make first. I’ve got two knit dresses cut out and the fabric for a Deer and Doe Datura blouse washed and waiting. What’s on your sewing table?

New Look 6217 T’Shirt

Aka my new favourite t’shirt. There’s not really a lot to say about it so instead I seem to have a bajillion photos with very little difference between them.

new-look-6217-tshirt

Side note: New hair! It’s way shorter than I’d planned but I like it. Well I like it curly anyway, I took these photos yesterday after having it cut and I’ve since washed it myself and with it straight but not straightened apparently I look like I should be in an Enid Blyton novel going on an adventure.

But back to sewing, New Look 6217 is one of those New Look/Simplicity patterns that come with pretty much a whole outfit. There’s the t’shirt, a kimono, a skirt AND trousers. The t’shirt is super simple with just two pattern pieces and no darts. There is supposed to be a small opening at the back neckline and a button but I left it off as the neckline is super wide so it serves very little actual purpose.

nl6217-back

I’ve been test driving a new (to me) fitting book (review forthcoming once I finish the Emery dress I’m using it to fit) and based on that I took some length out between the shoulder and the bust point. Unfortunately I forgot to add the length back onto the bottom of the armhole so they’re a little snugger than they should be but it’s still okay. I also did the neckline differently to the instructions. It’s supposed to be finished with an exposed bias binding but I turned mine to the inside. Which makes the already wide neckline slightly wider. So for future versions I may bring the neckline in slightly but I actually quite like a wide neckline so I might not.

nl6217-tee

It’s also a teeny bit too short so I’ll lengthen it an inch or two for my next version and I’m pretty sure there will be a load more versions. My green Scout tee is one of my most worn self made garments so I have got more t’shirts on the to be sewn list.

new-look-6217-tee
I like it untucked and tucked in

The fabric is some viscose I had left over from my Sewaholic Gabriola skirt and I think it’s perfect for this pattern but I am planning a version with some slightly crisper fabric too so we’ll see how that looks. I used French seams throughout and I seemed to be in a very bias bind-y kinda mood. As well as the neckline I bound the sleeve hems and actual hem. I toyed with adding cuffs but decided against it, though I do think they’d look good so I might add them to a future version.

nl6217-close-up

Non-clueless versions

I really like it when bloggers put links to other people’s versions of a pattern they’ve made so I thought I’d start doing it too. Such a copycat.

It was on OhSewPretty‘s blog that I first saw New Look 6217 and it’s her version of the t’shirt and kimono that made me buy it.

How gorgeous is Mags’ Silk and Lace version? Talk about elevating a simple pattern to something special with fancy fabric.

I also love Thimberlina’s versions, especially the border print one. That fabric is sooo pretty and I love the contrast of the binding.

I found Twinkle’s two gorgeous floral and anchor print versions by accident when I was actually looking up Lottie blouses. I really like the look of the button fastening on hers so I might make my next one properly.

Another Fabric Haul Video

And finishing on something completely different. I mentioned at the end of my last post that I was hoping to get in a bit of fabric shopping while I was in London and huzzah, I managed it. So I made another video of me wiggling fabric at you. I also talk about being a wimp and being scared of real life fabric shops. I can’t be the only one. Any of you guys scared of real life fabric shops or is it just me?

Anyway, that’s it from me. I’m going to do some slobbing on the sofa with my Manfriend and maybe watch something trashy. I hope you’ve all had a great weekend.